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In the US, things have improved a lot and there are informed consent clinics where you can go to a clinic and sign a document saying you know what you're doing and get a prescription for estradiol (not sure about T). Obviously things are very dicey politically, and some doctors are still shitty, but generally the medical/scientific consensus is on our side, and recognizes that it's better for people to get meds through a legitimate doctor/pharmacy as opposed to more sketchy online stuff.

I only say this because I hesitated to look into it because I'd heard horror storirs about medical gatekeeping, but when I actually looked into it it was much easier than expected.